Juan “Fico” Ziegenhirt “Fico” Key West Seafood Restaurant and Market

Fishing for the Best

With relentless energy, initiative, and old-fashioned hard work, a Cuban refugee works his way from driving a truck to steering his own business toward success.
By Annette Wright

A bright new star is shining on Washington Avenue in South Beach. “Fico” Key West Seafood flies in the face of the trendy restaurants and nightclubs that typically inhabit the avenue. Lines of beautiful people, long-legged girls, tanned tourists, and old locals who flock in for the delicious fresh fare have been forming on the sidewalk since day one. The light and bright, nautically-decorated eatery reflects owner Juan “Fico” Ziegenhirt’s no-nonsense attitude toward the restaurant business.

In 1980, when the 20-year-old Ziegenhirt came ashore in Miami in the Mariel boatlift with thousands of other Cuban refugees, he had no money, but he had drive, initiative and motivation to carve out a life for himself in this new country. Today, with a well-established fish market, two successful restaurants (the Flagler location does over 550 covers a day), and a tremendous energy fueled by his passion for his business, he has close to 50 employees, and is projecting the expansion of his operation.

Shortly after his arrival, Fico found employment as a fisherman in Key West. Two years later, he became a truck driver with Collins Fish & Seafood. While there, Ziegenhirt, a reflective man with deep dark eyes who, from early childhood learned to observe his surroundings, and understand the essence of things, learned everything there is to know about fish and seafood. Like a sponge, he absorbed everything: the names and species of fish, how to identify freshness, how to fillet them, and, most important, how to market them.

He soon transformed a seafood truck-driving job into Fish & Seafood 101.

On a day off, while strolling through the Flagler Flea Market, Ziegenhirt observed five or six seafood vendors, all selling an abysmal array of frozen, unclean, and poorly displayed seafood. He knew a good opportunity when he saw it. That same day, Ziegenhirt became a businessman. He plopped down the $60 rental fee for his own space and became a weekend warrior, selling seafood at the Flea Market.

“People got to know me, to trust me, and to depend on the quality of fish I provided. Within three months I was ‘King of the Flea Market.’
I had many, many loyal customers,” recalls Fico. And they remained loyal. Ziegenhirt went out of his way to fulfill all seafood requests. In addition to his weekly runs to Key West for local fish, he also filled orders for seafood not fished in Florida, like salmon and king crab.

After a successful four-year run at Flagler, political bickering between the city and the Flea Market organizers decided his fate. The market wouldn’t renew his license, so Ziegenhirt was forced to seek out a new location. He lived frugally during those years, driving an old car, living in an efficiency, and dreaming about his future. With substantial money in the bank, Ziegenhirt continued selling seafood, but next, from the back of a truck parked in a friend’s Texaco station. His loyal flea market customers followed.

He continued to do well, but after a year, again it was time to move on. Texaco complained that their lot was full of cars who came in not to buy gas, but fish, and for a few weeks, Fico set up camp in an empty parking lot half a block from the station, until he spotted a storefront for rent across the street. “Fico” Key West Restaurant and Seafood Market, located at Le Jeune and Flagler Street, opened as Ziegenhirt’s first full-fledged restaurant.

Up until then, he had considered himself, first and foremost, a seafood vendor, but decided when he obtained the Flagler space, that he wanted to flex his cooking muscles.

Ziegenhirt, who grew up in Cuba, but is of Italian and German descent, learned to cook from his Sicilian grandmother. “I enjoyed every moment of it,” he says. The food at “Fico’s” is composed of flavors culled from his multicultural background, including Italian, Latin and American influences. Ever loyal to his customers, though, he also consulted with them as he honed his menu.

Fast forward 12 years. The stand-up counter service at the Flagler “Fico’s” has been a success for years. Ziegenhirt recently opened a second restaurant, this time on riskier South Beach. When “Fico” Key West Restaurant, at 1248 Washington Avenue, opened five months ago, it immediately showed signs of success. Upon being greeted by the charming, affable Zeigenhirt, or his attractive wife Isabelle, patrons can take a seat at the comfortable counter, or be seated at a booth or table. Ziegenhirt and his wife share responsibilities for both businesses, and commute back and forth to the two, and to their two children.

They recently took some time to talk with the South Florida Gourmet.

The South Florida Gourmet: What gave you the courage to open a restaurant in trendy South Beach, where restaurants open and close as a matter of course?

Juan Fico Ziegenhirt: For many years, my customers wanted me to open another restaurant in Kendall, Hialeah, or Pembroke Pines. But, through research, we found that the demand was in Miami Beach. I knew that it would be expensive. I know how restaurants open and close within months. But we did our research. The beach was the ideal location for “Fico II.”

SFG: You’ve had no formal business training, yet you are extremely successful at what you do. What or who has inspired you?

JFZ: I have been fortunate to have buena suerte (good luck) close to me. I grab it by the neck and hold on to it! I am a good listener, too. I take advice from people I trust, and get ideas from many sources.

SFG: What is the key to your success?

JFZ: Giving the best to my customers, always, no matter what. Finding good employees. They have to feel good when they come to work – like part of a family business. Plus, finding the right position for the right person. It’s like managing a baseball team. We work as a team. And being loyal: to my family, my clients, my employees, my purveyors. They all know that when I give my word, I am good for it.Annette Wright is assistant editor and a contributing writer of The South Florida Gourmet.

Annette Wright is assistant editor and a contributing writer of The South Florida Gourmet.