801 Collins Ave., in The Hotel,
A Fresh Approach
menu sparkles with imaginative, complex dishes, sharply-flavored
with Brazilian exuberance, and executed with the best
French cooking techniques.
does a restaurant do when it loses its notable chef?
If you’re Wish, the delectable dinner spot at the
Goldman Properties-owned The Hotel, you perform a
nationwide search for a high-caliber chef with culinary
insights. The menu doesn’t have to remain the same,
but the level of creativity and kitchen skills must.
Enter newly-appointed executive chef E. Michael Reidt,
who arrived in South Beach on a wave of success: his
French/Brazilian creations in Boston’s Bomboa had
already placed him in Food and Wine magazine’s America’s
Ten Best New Chefs for 2001.
Chef Reidt created a new, evolving menu in a matter
of weeks, based on good basic ingredients, Brazilian
exuberance, and solid French cooking techniques: Foie
gras is dressed with sour cherries, salmon simmers
in a coconut broth, and seared tuna sits atop a slice
of spicy seared watermelon.
Bird Avenue, Coconut Grove.
Simone Zarmati Diament
updated version of an old classic has refined its
menu. Chef Wolfgang Birk has evolved his own contemporary
Italian cuisine, big on flavors, texture, and harmony.
a hotel restaurant, Bice stands on its own, with a
separate entrance leading straight to the jazzy bar
one of the nicest in town, with sushi happy hours
and martini nights. The handsome room, with subdued
lights and rare wood floors, looks warm and friendly
whether packed or empty, as soft music from the piano
player in the bar wafts through the door throughout
the Grand Bay Hotel was purchased by the Wyndham Group,
the Italian chef is gone, and this Bice, an updated
version of an old classic, is a far cry from the one