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beaujolais nouveauHow is this year’s Beaujolais Nouveau? Its fans swear it is absolutely charming and quaffing, its dectractors say that it tastes of banana and bubble gum, like an “over the counter” wine.

Actually a world-wide counter in 120 countries.

The tradition that every third Thursday of November, all consumers of the planet get to take their first sip of the Beaujolais Nouveau simultaneously results in the fact that wineries that make Beaujolais Nouveau export a larger proportion of their wine than any other producer in France, sending about 47 percent of their harvest abroad every year.

Each year, millions of bottles fly as far away as Japan -- which drank nearly 9 million bottles in 2012 -- and the United States -- downed more than 2 million bottles in 2012 --, which welcome the “French” preemie with fanfare, never minding the fact that in the old time it was a poor man’s plonk; the rich drank pinot.

While Beaujolais Nouveau has been the first wine of the year for 62 years − AOC wines may only be sold after December 15 following the harvest. But an amendment, voted in 1951, allows certain wines to be put on the market a month earlier, from 15 November − the celebration of new wine, the race to sell it fast goes back to practices from the Roman Empire.

The highly anticipated arrival still creates a joyful celebration and solves many a Thanksgiving quandary: A light wine with a good level of acidity it pairs well with anything on any groaning holiday table.

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2013 (100% Gamay), France. $10.99 - $12.99) Bright purple color with tinges of pink.  Fresh fruit on the nose. strawberry and banana in the palate, light tannins and good acidity. Refreshing and quaffing, this year’s wine is more complex and intense than in previous years.  Serve slightly chilled.