audrey b3

 

Young, talented and passionate, Audrey Braccini’s slender fingers seem to play a sonata on an invisible instrument as she describes the ineffable complexity of the Pouilly Fuissés she crafts, parcel by parcel, at Domaine Ferret since 2008.

Situated in the heart of Fuissé in the heart of southern Burgundy's prime Chardonnay territory, Domaine Ferret has been a producer of top Poulli-Fuissé cuvées since the end of WWII when owner  Madame  Jeanne Ferret, a stickler for detail,  decided to bottle and label the wines produced by her estate grown grapes as “unofficial  crus” in the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation.

The matriarchal Domaine Ferret had been managed since 1840 mostly by the women in the Ferret family until the line stopped at Jeanne’s daughter Colette and the domaine was purchased by Louis Jadot in 2008.

In equal measure muse and wizard to Pouilly Fuissé, Audrey -- who grew up in the cellar of her aficionado winemaker father in Lorraine, studied winemaking in Montpellier and excelled in Gamay vinification in Beaujolais – farms sustainably and vinifies each one of the domaine’s  45 parcels separately to extract the utmost truth and potential from a terroir of different soils: granite, sand, clay, marl and limestone.

She has an uncanny certainty of how much sun must caress each cluster and when the grapes are just about ready for harvest for the results she wants to achieve: Fresh wines with lively acidity, elegant minerality and subtle and engaging fruit with a long, lasting finish that enhance dishes from seafood and poultry to game and even desserts.

Photos: SFG - At a luncheon a Juvia, South Beach, the wines stood up and complemented from ceviche and tuna causa croquette with aji amarillo sauce to chicken curry and chocolate desserts.

 

 

audrey ceviche

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The wines:audrey food

2013 Domaine Ferret. A blend of the best parcels from Fuissé’s 10 to 30-year-old vines, the pale straw-colored wine shows freshness and elegance, minerality with layers of subtle fruit and a long and spicy finish.  It is “the ambassador of Pouilly-Fuissé”, Ms. Braccini says of this wine, half of which is aged in lined concrete tanks and half in older barrels,  to stress the importance of understanding the characteristics of the wines of this appellation before tasting the single vineyards cuvées.

audrey tournant2012 Domaine Ferret Les Clos Single Vineyard Rich golden colour, and a lovely mineral and earthy nose,  with a creamy feel due to malolactic fermentation and hints of apples and spices  

 2012 Domaine Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé Hors Classe "Les Ménétrières" Single vineyard.   Pure limestone soils and low yields deliver a golden color wine with a closed nose,  plenty of character in the mouth yet delicately complex with hints of mint and flowers and layers of orange, ripe fruit and spice.  Only 900 bottles were produced.

2011 Domaine Ferret “ Tournant de Pouilly “ Single Vineyard. A very hot July and August led to an early harvest (08/26) to keep the wine fresh and the level of acidity interesting. A little work from the winemaker – stainless steel fermentation followed by 1/3 in new oak barrels, 1/3 in 2year-old oak and 1/3 in 1-year-old barrels --  achieves a powerful yet complex and fruity wine

2010 Domaine Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru "Les Perrières", "The most beautiful vintage of the last 10 years " said Audrey. Gold yellow, with a rich nose of summer fruit and almonds, it becomes creamy, juicy and plush on the palate with hints of pears, apples and vanilla tempered by a young and fresh acidity. A long and lasting finish.

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