ques


Beauty and The Feast

601 North Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., Ft. Lauderdale
 
954-567-8020
 
 

 

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 by Jana Soeldner Danger

 

The whimsical name, Beauty and the Feast, makes it immediately apparent that this restaurant doesn’t take itself too seriously.  No sharply creased white linen tablecloths or jacket-clad waiters are to be seen at this beachside restaurant in For Lauderdale’s Atlantic Hotel, and wine is served in tumblers rather than stemware.

That’s not to say that it doesn’t take food seriously, but much of the fare is more fun than formal, and definitely invites sharing.

The view itself is a good reason to pay a visit. A bank of glass doors overlooks a patio with outdoor tables and then the beach and ocean beyond. Inside, exposed brick and rough plank paneling create a casually elegant backdrop for leather banquettes and wood-topped tables. Pendant lighting casts a romantic glow.

On a recent evening, tables and booths were filled with young and older couples, as well as families. The ambience is cheerful and fun, but a lot of hard surfaces make it noisy when it is crowded. If you are yearning for a quiet conversation with dinner, you will be better off sitting on the patio, which is lit with romantic torches after the sun goes down. The adjacent bar is a separate space, a lively place where young professionals gather for cocktails.

Because it is a hotel restaurant, Beauty and the Feast serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as weekend brunch. The dinner menu is divided into small plates, large plates, and feast plates which serve two or more, as well as a variety of pizzas. The wine list offers a varied selection of domestic and global pours ranging from moderately priced to expensive, with a nice variety offered by the glass.

Starters

Short rib quesadillas ($14.50) had crispy wrappers and a melt-in-your-mouth tender meat centers with just enough spice to tingle the taste buds. Chicken sliders ($12) had crispy coatings and moist, juicy interiors.

The white clam pizza ($16.50) was one of our favorites. The thin, crispy crust held a generous number of fresh, garlicky clams, tasty boursin and fresh parsley. The dish was, however, a bit too salty.

Crab bisque was very good. Instead of the usual plain sherry, it had an orange-infused version that produced a hint of citrus, and the creamy soup had plenty of tender, tasty crab.

Hankering for veggies? A side of creamed corn ($7) was accented with jalapeno, and char-grilled bittersweet Brussel sprouts ($7.50) were fresh and not overcooked, although once again, a bit too salty for our taste.

Lamb chops ($15.50), aromatic with fresh rosemary, were small—a sign they were from a young animal--tender and meaty. The tasty chops—I’d order them again in a heartbeat--were served over fluffy mashed potatoes.

Among the other starters and small plates are oysters ($2.50 each); smoked fish dip ($10); meatballs with tomato sauce ($8.50); chicken wings ($10); eggplant stack ($12.50); spring rolls ($10.50); bison sliders ($11.50) skirt steak ($14); paella ($16.50); sea scallops with wild mushrooms ($15.50); two versions of mussels ($12.50); and lobster francese ($16).

Large Plates and Feast Plates

One of the more unusual offerings at Beauty and the Feast is a slow-roasted half or whole suckling pig ($15.50 per person), which  requires an order 48 hours in advance and a minimum of six people. It makes a dramatic sight coming out of the kitchen, and for a party of meat lovers, it would be a memorable feast. During our visit, the chef paraded one of the pigs through the room and delivered it to a group in a private room, and it looked delicious as it came through.

Other entrees include herb-crusted chicken ($24.50); double-cut pork chop ($24.50); filet mignon ($35); veal Milanese ($29.50); and linguini with clams ($19.50).

The shared feast plates are marinated grilled hangar steak ($19 per person); whole fish (market price); and paella ($16).

Desserts

Chocolate mud pie ($10) was very good, the rich, dark filling  accented with crunchy Oreo chunks and topped with mocha mousse cream. Other sweet endings are Key lime tart ($10); carrot cake ($10); bread pudding ($10); and crème brulée ($10).

Beauty and the Feast offers a fun, festive dining experience, with tasty food and a beautiful ocean view. The menu is varied enough so everyone should be able to find something to enjoy, and diners of every age can be comfortable.

Beauty and the Feast

Address: 601 North Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd.

Phone:  954-567-8020

Hours: Breakfast 7-11 a.m. daily; lunch 11a.m.-3 p.m. Mon-Fri; brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat.& Sun; dinner 5:30-10 p.m. daily

Prices: Starters $2.50-$15.50; entrees $19.50-$35; desserts $10

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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