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Adena Grill & Wine Bar

900 Silks Run, Hallandale Beach

954-464-2333

 
 

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 by Jana Soeldner Danger 

Farm-to-table is a catch-phrase used by many restaurant owners and chefs today, but few take it as far and as seriously as Frank Stronach, owner of Adena Grill & Wine Bar in the Village at Gulfstream Park in Hallandale Beach. His family has its own 90,000-acre farm in Ocala, the source of the humanely raised, all grass fed, wet-aged Angus beef served at the stylish steakhouse, as well as the pasture-raised chickens.

Stronach, who also owns Village at Gulfstream Park, has been accruing land in Ocala for years and building a herd of cattle there. The restaurant’s menu explains the Stronach family philosophy: raising animals without pain, stress or added hormones, feeding them natural foods and allowing them to roam free.

Adena’s décor features spectacular Swarovski crystal chandeliers suspended from a coffered ceiling and colorful, dramatic murals of flamenco dancers by Russian artist Anna Razumovskaya. The dining room is large—it seats 297--but it is divided in half to give it a warm, more intimate feel. Floor-to-ceiling wine cases along one wall display 7,000 bottles, and an open theater kitchen allows you to watch the chefs in action. Comfortable, semi-circular banquettes provide seating at hard-surface tables.

Connected to the main seating area is a wine bar with dark wood tables, a private dining area and a marble-topped wine bar. Contemporary white leather banquettes add style to the lobby.

Immediately after you are seated, a server delivers hot, moist hand towels, followed by a basket of warm, crusty bread. An electronic menu lets you see tempting, full color photographs of food and cocktails before you make your selections. We were impressed by how knowledgeable our server was about the menu and wines.

Appetizers

I began with an unusual appetizer: roasted marrow ($15) served in the bone. A slightly sweet, slightly spicy onion jelly accompanied the rich meat, along with parsley salad and dusky grilled rye bread.

Smooth, creamy roasted tomato bisque ($12) was mildly spicy and accented by croutons seasoned with thyme. It was very good.

Reflecting the restaurant's expectations of upscale patrons, the appetizer menu includes caviar service (American paddlefish roe $60, and Russian amber osetra $150), and a $79 shellfish platter for two. Other starters include yellowfin tuna tartar ($20); gnocchi mac 'n cheese made with gruyere and bacon ($12 and $22); and burrata with strawberry, fig and hazelnuts ($12).

Entrees

The lamb chops (market price) served here comes from Colorado rather than Adena Farm, although plans do call for starting a flock at the Ocala location. Regardless of the origin, the thick, meaty chops perfectly cooked to order were delicious. Crusty on the outside, tender on the inside and bursting with flavor, the chops were enhanced by a honey glaze fragrant with rosemary.

A "cowboy" steak ($48) served on the bone was perfectly cooked to order and well-seasoned. It's an ideal choice for red meat lovers.

Other entrees include four other steaks ($40-$50); grilled Maine lobster or twin lobster tails (market price); rotisserie chicken ($28); fish of the day (market price); prime rib ($28 and $34); and an expensive burger ($24). For vegetarians, there's roasted vegetable and barley risotto ($24).

A side of sautéed mushrooms ($9) was disappointing. For the price, we expected a mix of wild mushrooms rather than just the rather bland baby bellas that were served. The menu also offers platters of international cheeses (Switzerland, France, Italy, England and the U.S.) priced at $20.

Desserts

Desserts (all $9) are made in house. Cashew lime pie had a cheesecake-like texture and a crust made with dates and almonds. Crunchy cashews provided a pleasing contrast to the creamy dessert, which was topped with coconut cream, mango and raspberry coulis. Creme brûlée, topped with fine-grained, caramelized demerara brown sugar, was a perfect version of the classic.

Other sweet endings are apple tart, chocolate torte, fruit cake and lemon curd pavlova.

Adena Grill & Wine Bar offers a stylish, casually elegant ambience, delicious food and prompt, knowledgeable service. Best of all, it serves humanely raised meats and poultry so you can feel better about enjoying them.

 

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Adena Grill, 900 Silks Run, Hallandale Beach. 954-464-2333

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Hours: Sun-Thu 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Fri-Sat 5 p.m. to midnight

Prices: appetizers, $12-$150; entrees, $24-$50; desserts, $9

Liquor: Full bar, extensive wine list   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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