Market 17 **

Portside Yachting Center, 1850 S.E. 17th Street, Fort Lauderdale, 954-399-0017
 farm-to-table, organically grown fruits and vegetables,delicious, innovative fare,  elegant yet
comfortable, excellent service : a  welcome addition to our dining scene.










Market 17

Portside Yachting Center, 1850 S.E. 17th Street, Fort Lauderdale

Phone: 954-399-0017

Hours: 5 p.m.-11 p.m. nightly

Prices: Appetizers $8-$16; entrees $12-$34; desserts $7-$13

Liquor: Full bar & extensive wine list

Ambience: Casual elegant










by Jana Soeldner Danger 

If you are among the growing number of diners who care about where their food comes from, you will appreciate Market 17.  Brother-and-sister team Aaron (previously with Seasons 52) and Kirsta (former general manager at Johnny V’s) Grauberger purchase their ingredients from local sources whenever possible, and bring food directly from farm to table.

Produce is organically grown. Meat, poultry, and game are raised humanely on small farms and ranches, instead of the usual factory farms where animals and birds typically suffer miserable lives. Fish is line-caught from the wild, avoiding the environmental concerns resulting from some fish farms.

The Graubergers are so serious about the sources of their food that they list them on the menu. All but a few products come from Florida, which should please area locavores.

Executive Chef Daniel Ramos, formerly with Sundy House in Delray Beach, is at the helm in the kitchen. Because ingredients arrive directly from the farm—or the fishing boat—the menu varies daily. Just about everything, including pastas, condiments, and cured meats, is made in house.

The setting 

The restaurant takes its name from its location on Fort Lauderdale’s 17th Street in the Portside Yachting Center, where it occupies the space that formerly was Jack Jackson’s Fish. Taupe walls accented with colorful paintings, columns upholstered in ultra suede, dark brown floors made from recycled wood, and crisp white tablecloths create casual elegance.

Sienna light fixtures shimmering with Swarovski crystals cast enough illumination to read the menu easily, but not enough to disturb the romantic ambience.  The main dining room offers seating at tables or pale green banquettes, and outdoor seating is available on the covered patio.

 An extensive wine list

 The wine list offers 350 labels from around the globe. Most of the wines are made from organically grown grapes, and a majority come from smaller, family-owned wineries. Approximately 30 pours are available by the glass, and diners can choose from four- or eight-ounce portions. The smaller servings offer opportunities to try different, or more expensive, vintages with minimal risk.

Entrees are also available in two portion sizes, petite and full. A note on the menu encourages vegetarians and vegans to ask for custom-made dishes. For diners who have difficulty making decisions, there are tasting menus offering four, six, eight, and a whopping 17 courses.  Each tasting menu is available with matching wines.

For the adventurous, there is an extremely unusual option: dining in the dark. That’s total darkness, in a private dining room that will accommodate up to eight people. Several different sample courses are delivered by a server wearing night vision goggles, and diners feast without using their sense of sight—the idea being that the experience heightens the senses of smell and taste. Advance reservations are required for this culinary adventure.


 One of the recurring and unusual appetizers on the changing menu is ceviche ($15) prepared tableside.  Diners can personalize the dish by choosing from the different kinds of fresh fish and seafood available that day, as well as accents and seasonings. Salads made-to-order at the table offer a choice of greens and vegetables.

On the night we visited, our meal began with three kinds of bread: walnut-raisin, sour dough, and wheat. All were tasty and served warm.

My first course was Florida shrimp and grits ($12) with goat cheese, Swiss chard, and spinach pesto. The Key West shellfish had the distinctive flavor of wild caught shrimp, so much better than the blander, farm-raised variety. Goat cheese added a delicious duskiness to the creamy grits. Spinach pesto, along with the crunchy green Swiss chard, nicely accented the shrimp, and a touch of jalapeno gave the right bite.

Charcuterie ($14) was a combination plate of house-made rabbit sausage, sweet and spicy Cajun ham, and lamb marquez with mustard and pickled vegetables. Both of the house-made sausages were good—the rabbit version was very mild and the lamb a bit spicier—and the ham was rich and smoky.

Other starters on the night we visited included lamb ragu (Market 17 lamb comes from Colorado, not Australia) ($12/$22); brandied wild mushroom soup ($8); jumbo stone crab claws ($16 each); and panko-breaded fried egg ($10).


          Key West yellowtail snapper ($17/$32) was wonderfully fresh, with an exterior grilled to a rich golden color, and a sweet, moist interior. The golden fish arrived on a bed of black lentils, an eye-pleasing presentation. The lentils, together with a sauté of leeks, fennel, kohlrabi, Swiss chard, and tomatoes gave the dish a hearty, home-style quality, and fennel cream was rich, yet delicate enough so it did not overpower the fish.

          Rack of lamb ($24/42) was excellent. Perfectly grilled, it was charred and smoky on the outside and moist and juicy on the inside. The demi glace served with it was faintly bitter, an appropriate complement to the mild taste of young lamb. Yummy sweet potato fries had crispy skins and soft, rich interiors.

          Other entrees were pasture-raised roast chicken ($25); ostrich filet ($19/34); pan-roasted duck breast ($17/32); pork loin ($18/34); skirt steak ($16/31); and tomato risotto ($12/22).


          Desserts are the creations of Pastry Chef Lurie Luciano. Key lime mousse ($9) was light, creamy and refreshing, layered with key lime custard and crème fraiche,. The accompanying pistachio shortbread added crunch.

          Chocolate chocolate cake ($8) was a bit of a disappointment. Two layers of cake alternated with layers of cocoa fluff, chocolate ganache and moca anglaise, but the cake somehow fell short—it lacked the intensity expected from rich chocolate, and it was a bit dry.

          Other desserts included fruit tart ($9); monkey bread ($9); Creansicle fizz ($7); frozen nougat ($8); chocolate pate ($9) and a cheese plate ($13).

A welcome addition

Market 17 uses farm-to-table, organically grown fruits and vegetables, most of them from Florida producers, as well as humanely raised meatsand poultry, to create delicious, innovative fare that diners can feel good about eating. The setting is elegant yet comfortable, and service is excellent. It is a very welcome addition to the South Florida dining scene.



0 #1 sal brody 2014-05-06 12:34
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